Dining Out in Phuket
Samples of Sardinia

 

Sardinia is a picturesque island and one of Italy's most culinarily exciting regions. During late January and February, the countryside of central southern Sardinia is dotted with white clouds of almond blossom. The trees seem to be covered with icing sugar, almost as if nature wished to highlight the origin of so much Sardinian confectionery.


Spring brings a wealth and variety of wild flowers that explode with colour and invite pollen-loving bees to the area, resulting in the delicious honey used in many of the exceptional cakes, pastries and breads of Sardinia. Spicy Sardinian dishes make good use of saffron, myrtle, basil, olives and of course the tomato. The regional dish is suckling pig or newborn lamb cooked on an open fire, however rabbit, game and a variety of meat dishes are also very popular. Visitors to Sardinia enjoy an extravagant combination of scenery, cuisine and service, so famed that the area has become one of the most exclusive travel destinations in the world.

It is said that loyalty and hospitality to strangers characterize the Sardinian code of honour and
Phuket's own resident Sardinian gastronomist Salvatore Cossu, stands as testimony to this declaration. In presenting a new 'degustation' menu this October, Salvatore offers his staunch clientele, as well as visitors to the island, samples from Sardinia, which will surely augment his already prestigious reputation. Salvatore's Restaurant located on Rasada Rd. in Phuket Town, enjoys substantial success due to the authenticity of the cuisine, having a good selection of Italian wines and the excellent level of hospitality that Salvatore personally ensures.

The newest creations from Salvatore's kitchen are not all listed in his menu and will generally be featured as daily specials. With each day, Salvatore will devise a number of exciting gastronomic delights, based on regional Sardinian cuisine, to wow his first time guests and in particular, his loyal regular customers. Salvatore's enjoys a healthy patronage from local expatriates and Thais and it is at these people that the new degustation menu is aimed. A first time visitor to Salvatore's will have a pleasantly difficult time deciding what to order, as the menu contains dishes from all regions of Italy and caters to most preferences. Now, with the regular customers in mind, Salvatore demonstrates his creativity and invention with Sardinian cuisine, so that they too may find themselves delightfully indecisive. Salvatore modestly stated that, "I have some people who come here to eat everyday and I want to give them something special. Also, I would like to take advantage of the products that are coming into season. Specialties from Sardinia can be made here in Phuket due to the abundance of local suppliers. "

During a recent visit to Salvatore's, a group of local expatriate business-people were treated to a preview of the new Sardinian flair as well as some of Salvatore's quintessential specialties. For starters, we were presented with a large platter of antipasti, loaded with salami felino, dates and celery stalks stuffed with bitey gorgonzola and parma ham accompanied by the obligatory cantaloupe melon. In addition, Salvatore prepared carlozza, a typical Sardinian dish consisting of special bread, which is filled with parma ham and mozzarella and lightly fried. The flavoursome ham, combined with the soft melted cheese was delicious and dangerously more-ish for mozzarella lovers.

The pasta course introduced the party to fregola, another regional speciality of Sardinia. Fregola is made from semolina in what is a very time consuming and labour intensive manner. The chef, after preparing the dough, must knead away at it, until small beads of dough form and separate from the ball. These 'beads' are similar in appearance to risotto but much firmer in texture. Served traditionally with meat, seafood or pork ribs in a tomato and basil sauce, fregola is unique in taste, texture and well worth a try.

Our main course consisted of breaded lamb with chicory served au gratin with parma ham and tomato. The tender New Zealand lamb was cooked to perfection and its flavour combined admirably with the bitter chicory leaves. In addition, Salvatore prepared some exciting looking mushrooms. These large, dark mushrooms were dressed with mozzarella and herbs, forming a strange-looking yet tasty dish. Strong in taste, these mushrooms would be an excellent selection to accompany game.

Salvatore's wine cellar is stocked with a variety of quality Italian wines, such as Gavi de Gavi, Cartello Banfi and Ca Montini. Salvatore himself personally selects all these wines for their excellence but not all of his picks are top end. Red and white wines are available in a range of palates and prices. A worthy companion to our meal was the Zinfandel, smooth and mellow, an exceptional compliment to the Sardinian spread.

Salvatore serves his own brand of Sardinian hospitality six days a week, closing only on Sundays until November. What better compliment to a Chef can there be than even one regular customer? One expatriate businessman pointed out that, "Salvatore's has a rare mix of strengths; the restaurant is not too big; you can always get any type of specialty foods, so long as Salvatore has the ingredients and Salvatore himself is always here to personally take care of his guests. "A second patron voiced that, "the restaurant is one of the few places in Phuket, away from a 5-star hotel, where you get excellent, attentive service. "Another guest offered great praise by stating that he and his wife "holiday in Italy twice a year but this year we won't go because we can go to Italy in Phuket. "For the kind, modest and ingenious Salvatore, all this adulation is an added bonus to what he loves doing the most, cooking. "After 34 years I think I know what people want and I try to give them a good experience. "

Reservations are recommended at Salvatore's Restaurant, 15 Rasada Rd. Phuket Town,
Tel: 076 225 958.

 

Tropical Living: Oct 2002, Volume 2 Issue 5


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