Story :  Gareth Marshall   
Images : Courtesy of Mezzaluna
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Bangkok is a city close to my heart although that’s not always been the case. My first visit intrigued me enough to extend my stay for a few days, but I only really fell in love with Thailand when I left the city.

Returning, I was reminded it’s a city full of sensations, and they are not always pleasant. The smells, the sights, the sounds…really, why would anyone come here? Then I discovered Mezzaluna.

In many ways, Bangkok’s redeeming ‘sense’ is taste and Mezzaluna goes some way to saving the city. And the senses are definitely aroused in every part of the Mezzaluna experience, from the moment you enter the lift that whisks you  to the 65th floor in the blink of an eye, to the hand-made chocolates that signify the end of your meal.

A Rare Breed

Orchestrating proceedings throughout the evening are a couple of chefs with quite a pedigree. Three-star Michelin experienced chefs are none too common, but Mezzaluna boasts two of them, and to find that they are twins reveals that the Suhring household must be quite a place to go for dinner.

Thankfully, Thomas and Mathias have made Mezzaluna their own since moving to Thailand and through the support of the management and some excellent staff they have achieved European standards in both food and service.

Mezzaluna sees them re-join forces after spending time apart, learning their trade in La Pergola Restaurant in Rome, under Chef Heinz Beck, and Librije Restaurant in Zwolle, Netherlands with Chef Jonny Boer, respectively. Before this they had worked together at the Ritz Carlton in Wolfsburg, Germany, which had two star Michelin status.

Now it’s not often one has the chance to meet with two such knowledgeable chefs, so I took the opportunity, days before dining, to meet with Thomas and Mathias so they could talk me through the meal, whet my appetite and, if truth be told, pick the best food.

What I found were two enthusiastic artists, happy to learn about styles and products from the East, while building standards to match the West. And while much of the produce of this Italian restaurant is imported directly from Italy, such as tomatoes from Sicily and mozzarella from Napoli, both chefs are keen to use local produce where possible.

“Bangkok hasn’t quite got the same standard of products as Europe yet and we have to import many things such meat, fish and vegetables, however Thai herbs are excellent quality,” explains Mathias. It takes time to improve the caliber of all produce but Thomas insists, “Thais should be prouder of their products.”

So with this, I had a menu. Frustratingly, I couldn’t test the choices immediately; I had a two day wait before dinner. How was I going to make it, with the expectation already building? I was quickly beginning to regret my plan which I’d previously thought so smart.

Heaven Sent

Was it worth the wait?
Oh.
My.
Word, was it worth the wait. It’s obviously too corny to say I had out of this world food at a restaurant called Mezzaluna (Half Moon), but I did. So I’m going to say it: The food was out of this world; heavenly; stratospheric.
Ok, I may have gone a little bit over the top there but I can’t describe how good it was, although I’ll have to make some attempt for you, dear reader.

My partner and I were tickled initially by not one, not two, but three amuse bouche. Amused? We were throughly entertained!

Then the real fun began. First came Ginger Marinated Akamai Tuna with green apple gel and amaranth. It was as good as it sounds, the only problem, which applied to each of our dishes throughout the evening, was it looked too good to eat. I know, I know, it flies against the English expression of something looking good enough to eat, but this just looked so beautiful it pleaded to be left undisturbed.

The next dish you must be prepared for, as I have never tasted anything quite so amazing. I am one of those who enjoys food, and enjoys the process of eating and digesting food, but nothing has ever come close to the sensations experienced when eating the Butter-Parmesan Tortellini with freshly blended parsley jus and Oscietre cavair. Hold on while I just re-live it for a second…

Fabulous Flavours

Are you still there?
Never needing to chew - in fact I didn’t even want to ingest this outstanding creation - it sat in the palate and slowly melted away. I was almost in tears when each mouthful was over. As I said to the twins after, I did everything possible to make the dish last forever. Could it get any better?

It seems difficult to imagine, but each dish sat in its own perfect little space, and despite having an uncountable number of courses, we never quite felt full until the final spoonful of Poppyseed-Chocolate Gateau with almond beignet and lavender ice cream, and this was after I’d managed the Wagyu beef tenderloin as my main!

At that point, the meal was almost over although my dreams were just beginning. I still think back on the meal like a long lost friend, like many I have crossed in my time in Bangkok, but this time the only sensation I felt as I traveled home through the streets of the city was a gratifying contentment that I was falling in love with the city all over again.