Story : Liz Smailes   
Images : courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok
...........................................................

Even the slightest breeze or increase in humidity can make all the difference between a Thai summer and a Thai winter. The same can be said for the renovations to the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok over the last four years.

Luxury Whatever the Weather
Frequently in the west the weather is such that to experience four seasons in a day is a common thing. In Bangkok, the five star hotel of the same name offers luxury all the year round, but that hasn’t always been the case at 155 Rajadamri Road.

To really understand this property’s design you must step back in time to the capital’s Bicentennial in 1982. This is when the hotel was designed and built as the meeting place of two worlds: a world of efficiency and practicality and the Thai world of graciousness and tradition. The layout was based on the complex of individual units that comprise a Thai house. To the main core, Kannikar Court with nine-storeys, were welded two seven-storey atriums on each side - Parichart Courtyard on the one side and Montathip Courtyard on the other side. Each was designed as a hollow rectangle with corridors and room entryways facing a huge tropical garden open to the natural sunlight and rain to give the feeling of a tropical paradise.

The exterior effect is one of stateliness; the solid outer walls, palatial or temple-like, rising to overlapping blue tile roofs. The theme is a blend of the quieter elements of the western culture and the peace of Buddhism. A replica of an antique bell graces the drive while twin sandstone elephants welcome guests. As you walk under the porte cochere portico between twin pools signifying the peace of Sunyata (emptiness) and onward through the front doors with a stunning bronze-cased pendant light with alabaster finish dish above, you step into a high ceilinged lobby. This area combines a western sense of worldly pleasure with an eastern concept of eternity.

Traditional Style
The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok is celebrated in Bangkok for its grand architectural style featuring impressive columns, high ceilings adorned with nearly 1,000 square metres of exquisite silk and tempera panels. The Lobby’s famous murals have been completely re-sorted by the son and daughter of the original artist, Adjan Paiboon Suwannakudt. The intricate panels totalling 19 sections in all are a recreation of the Thai cosmos. The centre of each panel is dominated by a mandala-like star. At the corners is Rahu, the mythical beast who gnaws on the moon during an eclipse and is frightened by firecrackers and loud noises. The Kinnaree, the sky-bourne equivalent of the mermaid – half woman/half bird, a heroine of ancient folktale is also featured.

The mural is typical of those decorating temple walls and like them, it is as much a celebration of life as it is a depiction of a stellar event in history. Rich details fill every corner. Noble figures predominate but with mischievousness, a reluctance to concede the entire stage to nobility, or simply from humanism. Thai artists invariably included common people in the margins. As such, the murals are chronicles of the entire spectrum of Thai society. This is a picture of an age far more revealing than musty portraits of exalted personages. The figures include children playing ancient games, women preparing meals and lovers sporting undetected by prying eyes. The chief subject is a procession to a royal coronation.

From this description, it is clear to see that this is a traditional hotel. There is nothing hip about the design, nothing innovative sneaking out to surprise guests. It is fairly predictable, typical, but the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok footprint shines through in the quality of service, which is second to none, and state of the art facilities available. The regional vice president and general manager, Mr. Patrick Ghielmetti explained to me that it’s not about doing anything new now it’s about doing what they already offer, only at a better standard than anyone else. Recently some of the city’s most talented artists, craftsmen and carpenters concluded a 220 million THB refurbishment programme throughout the hotel.

A Change of Name
When the property first opened its doors to the public in 1982, 155 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok, was home to the Peninsula brand for a very short while. Two years later it became known as The Regent Bangkok for nine years, after which it was bought out and operated by the Four Seasons Hotels and Resort group but carried The Regent name for another nine years. Finally, for almost five years ago, the company decided the market presence of Four Seasons within Asia was strong enough and had become such a globally recognized brand that the time had come to make a firm stamp on the letterhead, and they haven’t looked back since. This year the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok will celebrate 25 years of being at 155 Rajadamri Road, and 25% of the 300 current staff has been with them since day one. Perhaps surprising to hear is the average age of guests returning again and again to stay here are not the older clientele, but belong in the 34 – 45yr bracket, mainly families or businessmen.

The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok is dedicated to perfecting the travel experience through continuous innovation and the highest standards of hospitality. From elegant surrounding of the finest quality, to caring, highly personalised 24 hour service. The deeply instilled Four Seasons culture is personified in its employees, people who share a single focus and are inspired to offer great service. Founded in 1960, Four Seasons has followed a targeted course of expansion, opening hotels in major city centres and desirable resort destinations around the world. Currently with 74 hotels in 31 countries, and more than 25 properties under development, Four Seasons will continue to lead the hospitality industry with innovative enhancements, making business travel easier and leisure travel more rewarding.
......................................................................

One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.  ~Luciano Pavarotti and William Wright, Pavarotti, My Own Story~

     Each September the hotel plays host to the World Gourmet Festival. For one week, top chefs from the best restaurants around the world share their culinary delights and discoveries with a very hungry audience. Considering the reputation of the five in-house restaurants, there could be no better location to host this event. Every lunchtime and evening, 70% of the guests occupying the tables in Shintaro, Aqua, Madison, Spice Market and Biscotti are Bangkok based, and from that 70% it is an equal amount of both Thai and Expatriate residents.

     Surprisingly, the one restaurant that has not changed in 25 years is the Thai restaurant – The Spice Market. In March last year, the establishing chef retired after 25 years at the hob, and has been succeeded by Chef Supanut along with new dishes of traditional ingredients – Thai food enthusiasts and regulars of Spice Market are in for a surprise and some of the new must-try dishes are: Spicy Heart of Palm Salad (Som Tam Yod Mapraow), Fried Marinated Cod Fish with Crispy Tumeric and Garlic (Pla Sam-lee Thod Kah-Min), Sauteed Beef with Tamarind Sauce and Crispy Garlic (Nua Phad Sauce Ma Kam) and Grilled River Prawn with Mint and Lemongrass Salad
(Laab Goong Yang). 
........................................................................................

Tips to try all year round

Short and Sharp
Few men have the privilege to say their local Barber is at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, but at just 300 THB ++ for a wet shave, the resident barber can show Sweeny Todd a thing or two and is popular with many a local business man.

Smooth and Silky
The Spa by MSPA has a mix and match option from nine different massages, five body scrubs and three indulgent facials, all delivered to the best of standards found anywhere in town.

Lazy Weekends
Two things on the agenda for any Sunday are a sleep-in and feast. Starting at 11:30 am until 3pm, the Sunday Brunch here is one culinary explosion to the palette after another. It doesn’t get much better than this, and for just 2,350 THB++ make sure you reserve a table well in advance! This is where the locals chill and dine on the finest food, no matter what the season is.