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Manhattans Steakhouse |
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Story and Photography : Dr.Iain Corness |
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It was in this background that two restaurateurs, Steve Manning and Dave Bowers, pondered on the direction they wanted to go with a new restaurant concept they were kicking around. The only style not well represented was an American steakhouse, but their concept was anything but a wood floor and sawdust eatery. This was to be an American style steakhouse, that even New York had never seen. With both Steve and Dave being British, it was obvious from the outset, that some American input would be needed, and American Tom Vicario, a ‘lifer’ in the American restaurant business was co-opted to join the fledgling project as General Manager. The premises had been reserved in the newly completed Nirvana Place building, one of the ritziest developments in Pattaya. As they kicked it around, the concept was becoming much more than just a steakhouse, but more like a New York supper club. It was to be a destination venue like no other in Pattaya, and 25 million baht later, Manhattans Steakhouse opened last year. (Yes, you read the capital sum correctly! 25 million baht!) It is impressive before you even walk inside, as the valet parking staff in their black outfits and gold ties take your keys and escort you to the large glass entrance doors, where you are further greeted in that wonderful warm Thai way, or should I say “wai”. You are now in the cocktail area, dominated by two enormous aquaria housing tropical fish, that shield you from the main dining room. There is much to take in, including the Manhattan skyline sandblasted and etched into the large floor to ceiling windows, and we opted to relax in the enormously comfortable plush swivel chairs with a cocktail before dinner. To make you feel even more welcome, the cocktails come with complementary hors d’oeuvres. It is very easy to sit there and enjoy listening to the jazz pianist who plays from 7.30 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. He is accompanied by a singer from 9 p.m. The service staff, dressed in black and gold, just add to the glam and glitz. On the first visit it is hard not to be overcome by it all! Linger over your cocktails is the best advice! Adjourning to the dining area is done through more large glass doors between the aquaria. The walls feature large posters of Manhattan and there is a central black marble runway in the centre, with raised sections on both sides for the full-skirted tables. The raised areas are deeply carpeted and the seats leather and plush, and very comfortable. The tables have beautiful settings, heavy linen napery and quality cutlery, but mention must be made of the steak knives. Absolutely enormous, bringing back memories of that immortal line from Paul Hogan, as Crocodile Dundee, when he produced the very large blade in front of the punk who was intending to rob him, saying, “That’s not a knife. This is a knife!” Tom Vicario had them made in the US, but they have become so popular, he had to get the manufacturer to make more of them, and you can now purchase a set from Manhattans!
The menus are very large leather-bound affairs. It is a quality steakhouse, so the steaks feature US or Australian imported Angus beef. Steaks can be ordered according to size, as well as degree of cooking, but for those with smaller appetites, a 250 g steak is on offer at 810 baht. Americans do tend to eat the larger cuts, it seems. However, there are appetizers, soups, salads and other main courses such as a rack of lamb (795 baht) and even a Vegetable Napoleon with a roasted red pepper sauce (350 baht) for an errant vegetarian. There is also a section covering Thai favourites (95-350 baht). We began our meal with the Clams Casino for my partner - sautéed clams, bacon, peppers, garlic and oregano glazed with Parmesan cheese. Nine clams served on a bed of sea salt. A great start to the evening, and they tasted as good as they read! I went for the Beef and Blue which had strips of tenderloin overlaid with blue cheese on a crostini and all put under the salamander. This was superb and if you like blue cheese, this was a wonderfully flavoursome appetizer. For mains, my partner decided on the 250g prime rib steak, unbelievably tender and more than enough for her at that weight. This came with one’s choice of vegetables and potatoes, brought in separate dishes to the table. Eschewing the steaks, no matter how tempting, I decided on the lamb chops. Three very meaty and moist grilled Australian lamb chops with mint sauce, naturally, and I chose the baked potato and some steamed asparagus spears as accompaniments. Again an excellent dish, well cooked and very enjoyable. Summing up, the ‘steakhouse’ in Manhattans Steakhouse is a misnomer. It is far more than a steakhouse. It is fine dining in an American (Manhattan) themed restaurant, offering an excellent range of gourmet creations to be consumed in upscale surroundings. After the meal, linger in the cocktail bar, with a jazz pianist and singer Wednesday to Sunday. Restaurateurs Steve Manning and Dave Bowers, along with GM Tom Vicario have definitely produced a high end restaurant. And more than that. It is a true destination venue. Manhattans Steakhouse, Ground floor Nirvana Place, top of Thappraya Road, Jomtien, Chonburi
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Pattaya is certainly heaven for the ‘foodies’. The range of cuisines is extensive, the Chaine des Rotisseurs (the oldest gourmet club in the world) is very active, and some of the restaurants have been recipients of the New York Wine Spectator awards for many years running.
Before coming to the food side of dining, the wine list is remarkable in that from the 100 or so labels kept in stock, 17 different wines are offered ‘by the glass’. The ‘by the glass’ prices do not reflect a premium over the bottle price either. Two people dining can now experience four different wines, and still drive home safely! And these are not ‘house’ wines or vin de table, either. On our evening, the range included the Australian sparkler Seppelts Stony Peak Brut Reserve, another Australian in Elderton Tantalus Shiraz/Cabernet/Malbec (both of which I can personally recommend), or the Californian Francis Coppola Red Zinfandel or even the J.W. Morris Cabernet Sauvignon (a cheapie that my partner felt was the best performer at the very budget price of 215 baht per glass). With this range available, I would not recommend a bottle at all. Stick with the multiple choices. However, it should be pointed out that Manhattans Steakhouse does offer limousine pick up and drop off service for its customers, if you decide to sample every wine.|
Tropical Living: September 2007, Volume 7 Issue 4 |
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