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Luckily for me, my observation of the house was not restricted
to a far-off glance, but included a personal tour with real estate
agent Aart Roffel, Managing Director of Domi Duca Asia. The Golden
Teakwood House is one of many properties for sale in the for-now
relatively unexplored area in Chiang Mai.
With an 89 million Baht price tag, the Teakwood House is for only
the most discerning buyer, one interested in the highest-end Thai-style
properties of the north. The house is located in Lamphun, about
an hour away from Chiang Mai, on the Ping River.
The teakwood most definitely has a golden touch to it, a brightness
of wood tone that shines the closer you come to look at it. The
property has recently expanded and now includes a large plot of
land and a small grove of longan trees. These help to buffer the
property, giving it a wide open feel and cool it during the summer
months. It is a large property, with over 4800 square metres of
land and 460 square meters of living area.
The porch, as in most classic Northern homes, is the avenue of
transit to every area of the house. The roofline is definitively
Central Thai in style, quite different from Lanna sharper and plainer,
its roof gables mounting to a point at the very top instead of the
traditional Kalae.
My tour began at the stairway-garage area, where I was greeted
by a pair of classic antique statues - in this case two Burmese
water carriers, which ushered me, silently of course, up the stairs
and into the main reception area. I was immediately taken by the
main seating area, in the centre of the house, which exists as an
island unto its own, perched on its own stilts, reachable from the
rest of the porch only via a single wooden walkway-bridge. Inside
this reception area are an array of chairs and a table - a sitting
area perhaps, a greeting area, or even an exclusive dining area.
All rooms surround this island and every room is equal in size,
creating a great sense of symmetry to the building.
My tour continued to the two sitting areas, just past the living
room, out by the Ping River. In the middle of one walkway is a giant
satellite TV receiver, an awkward piece of modernity in the middle
of a classic Thai structure. But I don't rue for long about this
- such compromises come with the territory in modern day Thailand.
The sight of the gentle flow of the nearby River Ping is relaxing
and there are a variety of viewing heights to try out from the house.
There is also a boat landing here and although the river is not
navigable beyond a certain length, it does open up the possibilities
of what could happen with this particular estate. Roffel offers
one of his ideas for the property.
"This would be a nice place for a restaurant, or spa. You
could bring people in by boat and then bring them out by bus."
Indeed, the house is large enough for a variety of purposes and
I could well envision everything from a grand summer home to a corporate
get-away, from a grand-scale restaurant to a high-end spa. Many
and varied are the possibilities here with such a large property.
We proceed into the living room, the room nearest the river and
hear our voices echo from the towering apex of the ceiling. There
are simple furnishings here and some very unique antiques, in particular
an ancient Thai xylophone which stands against one wall.
One of the unique selling propositions for the house is the ability
to take it apart, if one is inclined to do so. Roffel points out
the construction as we move toward the bedrooms. There were some
nails used in construction, but for the most part, the house is
pre-fabricated, able to be taken apart and moved with little damage
in the process. Pieces are connected by wooden bolts, a design intended
to last for centuries.
The bedrooms, there are six in all including a servant's area,
are all similar in style and all measure about 90 square metres.
The ensuite portion forms the front of the bedroom and an elevated
platform creates a cosy sleeping area, next to a bathroom. The rooms
are dark and quiet in the middle of the day, cool rest areas away
from the summer sun.
Roffel explains a bit more of the concept of the porches and the
rooms.
"From what I understand of the Thai-style house, the original
Thai house is that the occupants start with one room and then move
to have different rooms. If someone gets married, they get their
own room. That's normal, but not so common now."
There is much that is "big" about the place and one appreciates
this up close as well as afar. There are the doors, for instance.
Many stand at 2.5 metres in height, while some window-panes are
1.8 metres tall, complementing the tall ceilings. All the posts
of the house are large, extending to 1.9 metres in circumference.
As we make our way around the porches, looking into rooms, the
noise of a Tokay lizard breaks out. Apparently we're not alone in
the house. There is one constant owner always on duty now disturbed
by our wanderings.
We finish the tour with the prayer room, an open room, much smaller
than the living area, in which several Buddha images and other religious
paraphernalia sit. Again, depending on a future owner's wishes,
I could well imagine this area being turned into an office. There
is plenty of space for a simple office and with the addition of
air conditioning it would be quite comfortable at any time of the
year.
Teakwood, of course, is practically the gold of Thailand, after
the nationwide logging ban of 1989, so places like the Golden Teakwood
House become more and more special as the years go on.
"That's great," said Roffel. "Of course, it's so
expensive because it's real teakwood. You cannot buy it. And if
you buy it, it's more expensive than gold."
With our tour ended, we head out into the day, intent on visiting
one more property before the afternoon is over. The Tokay sounds
again, sending us off and wishing us well as we descend the stairway
away from this magnificent property and out into the heat of the
day.
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