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In my ignorance, I had simply assumed that Angkor Wat was the name
of both the town and the singular, though magnificent, site therein.
I hadn't even begun to imagine what types of hotels were available,
but I generally assumed, given the country's history of strife,
that my parents would not be especially comfortable in any of them.
Thus, it came as some surprise to discover, over the course of sorties
into the wonder of our age, the world wide web, that accommodation
in Siem Reap ranges from the cheap guesthouse to the lavish, colonial
Grand D'Angkor. In fact, I found a number of four and five-star
hotels, which presented me with the dilemma of having to choose.
Our trip to Siam Reap was scheduled for April, which is just about
the hottest, driest part of the year in South East Asia. It would
be dusty, with temperatures in the upper thirties centigrade. We
would be walking throughout ancient stone ruins, which presumably
would absorb the sun's radiant heat, for hours at a time. I eliminated
from my list of possible hotels all that did not have substantial
swimming pools. One resort had garnered rave reviews and had won
numerous awards for quality and service, but its swimming pool seemed
rather meagre. No amount of chocolates on the pillow at turn-down
can compensate for an inadequate pool, I thought, imagining hundreds
of guests standing shoulder-to-shoulder in a bathtub. Awards or
not, this simply would not do.
In the end, I narrowed my search to three hotels, each of which
bore standards of international chains: Raffles, Sofitel and Pansea.
The first two were large and quite clearly world class, but I was
drawn to the intimacy of the third, which was described as "a
deluxe boutique hotel built in tribute to fascinating Khmer architecture,
located on the shores of Siem Reap River, a stone's throw from the
busy local markets and minutes away from one of the Seven Wonders
of the World, Angkor Wat." Boutiques are more personal than
larger hotels, preserving the spirit of a fine guesthouse or bed
and breakfast while providing most of the amenities that five-star
resorts offer. Bigger hotels, lovely though they may be, are the
natural choice for tour groups, hordes of people shuffling through
buffet lines with plastic name tags clipped to their breast pockets.
My parents and I were going to Siem Reap, our most exotic destination
to date. I wanted accommodation that would provide a true, Khmer
feel. I couldn't see how, in any way, busloads of guided tourists
would contribute to our experience.
he clincher, however, in choosing the Pansea Angkor, was, of course,
its swimming pool. The picture in the website showed a stylish,
jet-black surface which reflected the wooden, Khmer-style buildings
of the hotel. The pool was a long, narrow, rectangle, leading to
a fountain created from an Angkorian lion statue. I counted sixteen
lounge chairs lining the water's edge, so it had to be in the neighborhood
of 35 metres in length! After seeing this picture, there was no
turning back. I guided my mouse to click me into a pre-paid reservation
for two nights, over Easter weekend.
To my pleasure, the swimming pool was even more spectacular in
real life. The water was perfectly clear, as one should expect,
and myriad shades of dark green winked up from the bottom. What
the website picture failed to capture was the beauty and artistry
that lie below the glassy surface. 45,000 handmade tiles, each individually
glazed and reflecting its own, unique green tone, finish this gleaming
water vessel, which was designed in the tradition of the Baray,
the artificial lakes within the Angkor temples.
The hotel is, as advertised, a tribute to Khmer architecture. The
style bears some resemblance to that of old Chiang Mai, although
the wood has a redder hue. The roofs and shutters are fashioned
of the same red wood and the eaves are finished ornamentally. From
the moment we entered the gate, we were sheltered from the mid-day
sun and the main lobby, freshened only by ceiling fans, was positively
cool. The ancient architects of this region certainly figured out
how best to provide refuge from the elements.
Thailand is famous for its smiles and friendly people, but the
Cambodian staff at the Pansea Angkor could put the best of Thailand
to the test. Warm, gracious and professional, everyone we met spoke
excellent English with very little accent, as though they had studied
abroad. Throughout the course of the weekend, we found our hosts
to be friendly, charming and attentive. The service was impeccable
and made us feel right at home. My only regret of the trip was that
I hadn't had the time to get out into the markets and farther upcountry
to meet more Cambodians.
En route to our room, we passed the celebrated swimming pool. A
fountain erected in a recreation of the Hindu "linga"
statues found throughout the temples spills water down a narrow
aqueduct to the main pool, leading to the aforementioned sandstone
lion, who stands guard while spouting water from his mouth. Mid-way
down the pool, along the side, another fountain with stone benches
presides over the serene waters.
We were housed in a deluxe pool view room, on the second floor.
Ceilings were high and capacious and one could almost leap from
balcony to pool. Exquisitely appointed with Khmer flair, the room
was finished with natural materials including bamboo, wood, stone
and cotton and was large enough to feel like a suite. Both the king-sized
bed and my guest bed were constructed of heavy, hard wood and the
mattresses were plush clouds of cottony invite. Though unnecessary
given the room's modern screens, a mosquito net was tied above the
master bed, imparting an air of yesteryear and an atmosphere of
romance. Cordoned off by a bamboo curtain, the bath was free-form
and spacious, an elegant green terrazzo which recalled the tiling
of the pool. A long dressing counter with matching green basin sink
and two mirrors ran along the wall and the commode had been shunted
off into its own separate chamber. The closet space was ample and
airy, easily meeting the demands of three travellers.
Before heading out for our first afternoon at the temples, we sampled
the cuisine in the dining room. Two set menus were available, one
Khmer, one Western, in addition to a la carte offerings. We found
the set menus to be the best value and the most interesting. Fresh
fish from the nearby lake, sour and spicy prawn soup and Khmer sweets
were the highlights. In all, we enjoyed four meals in the restaurant,
two breakfasts, one lunch and one dinner. The dining room itself
is quite lovely, like the rest of the hotel and a charming veranda
is set outside, beside a garden pool. Food was excellent, as was
the service. Unfortunately, smoking is permitted throughout the
restaurant, which made for a rather unpleasant stale smell. Non-smokers
would be better off to sit outside in the open air.
Light meals are also available poolside and in the colonial-style
verandah named simply, "The Bar." The latter is on the
second floor, overlooking the pool and affording views of Siem Reap
River. According to hotel literature, The Bar is "primed to
be 'the' place for hotel guests and the trendy elite of Siem Reap
alike." Without doubt, it is a choice spot for enjoying a Bombay
Sapphire or even a shot of local whiskey. One could imagine foreign
correspondents and literati congregating here, taking advantage
of its cool breezes and comfortable rattan lounges.
To say that the Pansea Angkor was as essential to our Siem Reap
visit as were the temples would be something of hyperbole. The ruins
are simply without parallel, mind-blowing, awesome. However, as
I had anticipated, our energy was short under the Easter sun and
afternoon dips in the Pansea's refreshing pool came as more of a
necessity than a luxury. Of equal importance were the comfortable
beds in our air conditioned chamber, providing optimal refuelling
cells for our tired bodies. On Monday morning, we checked out completely
satisfied, thankful that we had made the right choice of accommodation.
Although two nights were not nearly enough, we felt pleased to have
enjoyed Khmer hospitality and had a true Cambodian experience. In
the end, the Pansea's mission statement describes it best, "A
haven of tranquility and peace in the mysticism of Angkor."
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