Tropical Villa Rentals
Chiang Mai in Style Baan Thip Chang

 

Jean de Gomery stops at the edge of the River Ping on the periphery of his luxury villa of Baan Thip Chang, scans the murky waters and makes the following observation.


"For me, there's got to be water," he says. "There's got to be a lake, a river, or the sea to a property. That's the focal point. The funny thing is, in Chiang Mai, it gets very hot in summer, but being on the river, it's much cooler."

We are both standing beneath a bright yellow concrete arch, between twin statues of the multi-headed Naga, midway through the tour of his impressive estate. Water hyacinth and forest debris float by, carrying the words southward. He continues.

"I'm glad we're on the river and we can just pump the water and the sprinkler. This is just usually so green."

I can concur with all these thoughts. The elementals, especially water, fire and earth, when combined by an artistic eye, are what bring a true sense of beauty to any property. Unfortunately, I have come to see this Chiang Mai luxury rental in the early morning and cannot enjoy it during the early evening hours in its full "fire" element glory (under floodlights). During the day, the water element is in abundant evidence, giving me more than enough to enjoy.

There is the pool for starters, a blue-tiled, infinity-edged rectangle swimming area that greets all who stroll out onto the central porch area. There are fountains, concrete elephant statues squirting jets of water into the pool and a bubbling mini-waterfall at the north edge of the housing estate. Then, of course, there is the Ping, flowing silently and resolutely along the boundary line of the property.

Baan Thip Chang is one of two luxury-style Thai villas for rent from Gomery, the other located on Phuket's Kata Beach. Both are first-rate options for the discerning tourist or businessperson, offering fully-furnished houses for travellers or short term visitors. Baan Thip Chang has six bedrooms and 800 square meters of living space in all and lies approximately 15 kilometres south of Chiang Mai city, on the way to the Baan Tawai and Hang Dong shopping centres.

Our tour is comprehensive, lasting a good hour one Sunday morning and includes a brief visit to Gomery's two other area properties, which are already occupied by long-term residents. The first has been turned into a luxury spa by Japanese ownership, while the second has been occupied for the last four years by an American owner. Gomery, a Belgian by birth who calls London home, first came to Thailand in 1976 in his capacity as a United Nations economist. He returned in the mid-eighties with an MBA and settled into Singapore where he did quite well in the financial markets for several years, before riding the equally impressive boom in Thailand.

There are four buildings in all in Baan Thip Chang. A separate building at the entrance includes a kitchen area and a space for the staff. There are six people who work on the estate, maids, drivers, and others, who are part of any rental. Several of them are certified guides and can readily lead renters about on trips to the local countryside and into the city. Rentals also include the full use of a Honda CRV and driver.

Our morning tour begins in the main building of Baan Thip Chang, the inside and outside of which reflect a labour of love by his wife, Primprow (Meow), a Chiang Mai native who has chosen a deluxe array of furniture, granite floors, giant oriental rugs and other antique pieces to decorate with. Baan Thip Chang is "modern" Lanna style, with only a double roofline delineating its Northern Thai heritage. Its insides, bathrooms and living areas are all modern, befitting a luxury rental.

"At the end of the day, it's got to be comfortable," Gomery says.

The couple's three children seem to verify this in their own way, running about, enjoying the wide open space of the living areas and relaxing atmosphere of the house.

Primprow, who is also an artist, joins our tour as we explore the main living areas.

"It took me about ten years to collect all the furniture," she says, explaining that much of the house was designed to best illuminate what she had already purchased. Pieces have come out of other houses and from markets all over the country. Gomery points to several pairs of antique doors that blend in seamlessly to the overall design and to the use of her favorite colors of red and yellow to highlight the wood detail. The house has undergone expansions and revisions over the years. At one time, the estate counted a Jacuzzi and fireplace among its features; those have since been removed.

The modern conveniences are well represented. Satellite TV and all the other perks of the 21st century are in full force, although most visitors would probably be seeking to get away from these by heading out to this countryside estate. For those serious about their work, a room upstairs combines Buddhist art and an office to create what is surely a most unique "Buddha" work area. As I walk by the room, I notice one of the children has made it upstairs and is playing computer games.

For get-togethers, there is a dining room area downstairs, which can seat 14 comfortably about a giant mahogany table. A full hand-painted seated bar area greets visitors as they come in the door and seems to also set the tone for the estate, urging entrants to throw away their worries for the time that they are there. Gomery says that 12 to 15 people can use the property at any one time, although 12 is probably the ideal number. There are lounges upstairs and down and four bedrooms in all in the main building. All rooms are air-conditioned, but the house remains cool during our tour, the effect of the tall ceilings, the bounteous wood and northern cold season climate.

The most impressive views of this airy villa, however, come as I tour the myriad porches. There is one on the second floor overlooking the entire property, covering a ground-level sitting area that abuts the pool, an ideal spot for barbecuing, or just sitting for cocktails. A collection of 4-metre high hilltribe drums have been colourfully arranged at one corner of the pool, and the infinity-edge looks out on the river.

One of the more intimate sitting areas is directly along the Ping, the so-called "honeymoon cottage," a relatively recent renovation of a gardener's house into a separate bedroom. It is my favourite of the tour, a cosy little nook replete with Chinese decorations - lanterns and a giant wall hanging of an ancient emperor the most striking of these. The porch to this unit, tree lined and shaded, provides a close-up view of the river and is one of the more romantic areas of the house.

There are four bedrooms in the house and two "outside" in separate buildings, ideal for the larger groups who want some privacy for each couple while maintaining the larger group experience.


 

Tropical Living: April 2004, Volume 3 Issue 11


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